8/11/13

Not Blue in Oxford

We had stayed overnight in London so that I get help Jenn make her early morning flight back to the States.  That meant that I had a full day to travel back to Derby, with the freedom to choose any itinerary that I wanted.  Oxford was only 45 miles away, was somewhat on the way back, and was the site of some great architecture and walking paths around the University.  It was also the home of some great CAMRA rated pubs, and since it was a beautiful day, I thought a pub crawl might be in order (1/2 pints all day, everything on cask, got to love it).  So I drove town, stopping at the park and ride to make it in the city and not risk any parking tickets (I am so smart at the beginning of a day), and got ready to explore.

I was there early and needed breakfast, so I headed over to Four Candles, a Wetherspoon pub, for breakfast.  I got their before they served beer (it was Sunday after all), so I got my Eggs Benedict (I miss Jenn already) with tea.  However, when the local construction workers came in for their morning pint, they were served.  I went up right after them.  I got White Horse The Guv’nor and Brakspear Oxford Gold, local beers celebrating Oxford, and then planned what to do until the rest of the pubs opened. I chose to go to the center of town to climb the Carfax tower, the remaining portion of the 12th century St. Martin’s Church.  The tower is 74 feet tall and no building in the center of town is allowed to be taller (kinda like William Penn in Philadelphia).  I climbed the 99 steps to enjoy the view, and got a lay of the land.  Next I went to the Ashmolean Museum, the world’s first university museum, which was built back in the 1680’s.  The museum was impressive, and I enjoyed wandering around looking at the different collections, but it was getting time for the other pubs to open so I had to be on my way.

My first set of stops was amidst Oxford University itself.  I went to the White Horse, CAMRA recommended, and enjoyed a Shotover Oxford Prospect and a Vale Captured Golden, as well as picking up a postcard with noted pubs in Oxford (a guide book for a pub crawl?).  Next to Blackwell’s bookstore, it had a picture of Bill Clinton enjoying a pint in the entrance way.  I then went over to the Bridge of Sighs to find a passageway down to Turf Tavern (http://www.theturftavern.co.uk/), a 13th century alehouse that has sod growing on its roof (Norwegian style).  I had the Greene King Turf Tavern and a White Horse Black Horse Porter.  They were complaining that they were having trouble with their beer lines, but a Greene King service expert showed up and took care of business.  Finally, I headed over to the Kings Arms for a snack and looked forward to getting a Scotch Egg, but their kitchen was not quite ready.  No worries, the pickled egg was a great alternative, and I helped myself to a Young’s Hummingbird (brewed with passion fruit) and a Young’s Kings Arms (did I mention that it was a Young’s pub?), and looked to see what part of town I would visit next. 

I was getting hungry so I walked up through the University, down Museum Road, and along Lamb & Flag passage to my next stop, to the CAMRA recommended Lamb & Flag (guess that is where the name of the passage came from).  I had a Palmer’s Lamb & Flag Gold, but did not find anything to jump out at me so I headed across the street to the Eagle & Child (I love the names of pubs) and enjoyed Downtown Ed’s American Red (meaning overly hopped).  Still no food, so I found another CAMRA pub, Far from the Maddening Crowd (on a back alley) (http://www.maddingcrowd.co.uk/), and drank a Tiny Rebel FUBAR (I love the beer names, too).  There were also a group of ladies on their own pub crawl, and recommended I grab a bite to it at the Grapes.

The Grapes (http://www.bathales.com/our-pubs/pid/the-grapes/) is a Bath Ales pub, and offered their regular beers as well as some season specials.  I had their Special Pale Ale, and was happy to see that they were offering food.  I started off with a pickled egg (what else) and LOVED their Cheese and Beer Toast (i.e., Welsh Rarebit) which was to die for.  I chatted with the landlord and got some bottles to go, and made some new friends with some blokes who appeared happy to find an American in their pub. 

Fortified, I went on a tour of Christ Church, home of the Great Hall that was the model for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts Hall.  I love the history and reference given to the entire site, but was then back off to finish my Oxford tour with three CAMRA pubs.  The Royal Blanheim offered the White Horse Village Idiot.  The Bear provided Fuller’s Wild River Pale Ale.  Finally, I wrapped up at the Chequers with a Navigation Traditional (I am a traditional guy after all).  Great beers, great sites, a great day.  I caught my bus back to my car and started to head home, but realized it wasn’t quite dinner time and there was one more stop that I wanted to hit on the way home, Stratford-Upon-Avon.

Stratford-Upon-Avon is a beautiful town that is known for being the birthplace of Shakespeare.  I searched for parking, but the lots were full, so I pulled into the Stratford Sports Club and parked in their field (illegally I found out later, an $85 mistake).  The place was packed with families picnicking and enjoying the weather.  It was dinner time, so I walked up the River Avon to The Bear and got a Ploughman’s and a North Cotswold Bear Best Bitter.  Basic, simple, and delicious.  I then crossed the river and went through the market area to find the house where Shakespeare was born on my way to my next stop, the New Bull’s Head for a Hook Norton Pride of the Cotswolds (did I mention that we were in the Cotswolds?).  It was now getting late, so I got the last batch f Chinese noodles from the market (not the best choice on my visit), found my car (and parking ticket) and headed back to Derby.

It was nice to have a day to explore, but I wish I had been able to work it out so that Jenn could be with me.  She would have love the scenery, and would have had a ball simply relaxing along the river. – 6327/14452

“A day without beer is like a day without sunshine.” – Sign at the Royal Blenheim in Oxford, UK

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