So
we headed out to Anglesey to the South Stack Lighthouse. We’re lighthouse and seacoast fans, and the
pictures we saw peaked our interest. So
we headed out to the edge of the island on back roads and through sheep farms. The lighthouse had a visitor center, and a
trail to hike down to the bridge to get over to a separate island. The bridge was closed, but the site was still
open and we were able to get down to close to the edge. In the US it would fenced off with barbed
wire, here in Wales there’s a small sign that says, “Dangerous Cliffs,” but in
2 languages. The other thing that was
remarkable was the number of puffins chillin’ out on the cliffs. It was great to be out here together, away
from the crowds and tourists and appreciating what we both loved. But I was on a schedule, and it was time to
get moving towards the town of Beaumaris for lunch.
Beaumaris
protected the northern inlet to the Menai straits, and that’s where the English
built another one of their forts. Beaumaris
castle was impressive, but unfinished, with a moat around the outer wall and
its own dock for supplies to come in by ship.
The inner wall’s portcullis was evident, and you could see how the
castle was arranged defensively in that it was off center with the outer wall
gate. Next it was off to lunch (the day
was flying by), so we walked up the street to the Ye Olde Bulls Head Inn (http://www.bullsheadinn.co.uk/). We split a plate of hummus (that was a first
for me in the UK) and I had a Hancock HB on cask. Hancock was the largest Welsh brewer 50 years
ago, but it was bought by Bass, then Coors, and is now back in Wales being
brewed by Brains. For lunch it was
another BLT, but this time on a baguette, with a Charles Wells Eagle IPA. The place was nice, but it was time to move
on, so we headed to our next destination, Betws-y-Coed.
Betws-y-Coed
is a resort town in the middle of the Snowdonia Forest Park, at a point where
several rivers come together. There were
picturesque bridges, lots of shops (did I mention that Jenn liked this town),
and plenty of places to get a beer. I
stopped in at the Glen Aber Hotel for a pint (or two), and the hotel owner was
happy to open the back bar for Jenn and I.
We had the place to ourselves. I
had the Brydy Conwy Welsh Pride on cask, and Jenn had the Gaymer Olde Dragon Cyder. Walking around the town was a delight, and I
quickly found myself people watching while Jenn checked out the stores. I really was starting to feel the pinch for
time now, and I knew we couldn’t stay as long as I had wanted to, but I one
more stop to make before we headed to the airport.
So
we headed east to Bridge End Inn in Ruabon, Wales (http://www.mcgivernales.co.uk/page6.html), who last year was
the first pub in Wales to ever win the CAMRA Pub of the Year award. The Campaign for Real Ale (http://www.camra.org.uk/) was formed to keep
the British beer industry from becoming too “Americanized”, recognizing their
brewing heritage and promote the drinking of real ale. The Bridge End Inn was a nice cozy pub, with
a great landlord and quite a talkative clientele. The landlord said I had come the second
farthest to his pub since the announcement (the other guy was from Vancouver,
Canada, so he has me beat). I decided to
stay with the Welsh theme, and started with a McGivern (the house brewer) Code
Breaker and wrapped up with a New Plossey Dusky Maiden Stout. The folks asked about our beer book, wanted
to know where we had been, and then proceeded to suggest a half a dozen other
places to visit while we were in Wales.
The food menu was limited (although I wished I had tried the Scotch
Egg), so we said thanks for the beer and the conversation and headed out to our
hotel at the airport.
Vacation
was over, and now we had to make the long (and I mean long) journey home. There was a threat of a tanker strike so
finding gas for the car was a challenge (although this time I didn’t get hit
with any Congestion charges so I had that going for me, which is nice). Dinner was a Chicken Tikka pizza (different,
by delicious), breakfast was a ploughman’s with a Bulmer’s berry cider, and we
caught our flight the next morning (3 different sets of queues) back to
Philly. It was good to get home, and
Jenn was rewarded for her endurance test with a Dunkin Donuts French Vanilla
Iced Coffee. The reality is that the
only thing better than getting away is being welcomed back home. – 6000/12180“A meal of bread, cheese and beer constitutes the perfect food.” - Queen Elizabeth I
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