3/18/12

Honoring our Muthers

I’m back in England for some business, and a tour of local pubs and breweries (plus an additional castle or two).  Jet lag is always an issue after the red eye, so we didn’t want to go too far afield to explore (hard enough staying on the left side of the road without adding in sleepiness).  So we went over to the classic brewing town, Burton-upon-Trent, and checking out the National Brewery Centre.  It was the original Bass museum, had been bought out by Coors previously, had closed (presumably because no one wanted to go to the Coors museum), and has recently re-opened, celebrating the brewery tradition in town.

Bass was the biggest brewer, but in the town’s hey-day it was only one of 30 breweries.  This place was important since it was already on a trade route, using the Trent River, and because the mineral content of the local water.  The brewers found the water to be perfect for the brewing of British Pale Ales, with Bass probably being the most famous.  I learned that they didn’t use the river water itself (otherwise other places along the river could have done the same thing), but it was mineral water from local wells that contained gypsum.  The museum had lots of examples of old machinery describing the process, as well as horse carriages and cars that were used by the brewers.  Worthington brewery was highlighted, and was featured at their restaurant, the Brewery Tap (http://www.nationalbrewerycentre.co.uk/brewery-tap-bar-restaurant-burton-on-trent.htm).

Turns out that it was Mothering Day, and the Brewery Tap was packed.  They were running a special carvery, and there was no room in the restaurant.  No problems, we camped out in the bar area (it was where I really wanted to be anyways).  The pub offered many Worthington beers.  Worthington had a strange past, being offered, then contracted, and finally returning home to be brewed in the town (although run by Molson/Coors).  I liked the Red Shield, a blonde ale, as well as the Brewery Tap bitter.  The landlord took pity on us and offered us a plate full (we were sitting down anyways), so we enjoyed some pork (with cracklin’) and some Yorkshire pudding.  The museum had a store, and I was able to pick up some favorites from Burton Bridge, highly recommended by late MJ.  I got bottles of Tickle Brain Old Ale, Bramble Stout (brewed with blackberries), and their bottle conditioned porter.  We even walked down to their pub, but were disappointed to find them closed (Sunday hours were 12-3, and 7-10, not helping us at 4PM). 

We headed back to Derby, as the group’s chauffer (e.g., me) was getting pretty tired. We wrapped up the evening at the Old Silk Mill, rated 7.4/10 by Beer in the Evening (http://www.beerintheevening.com) and offering a good selection of beers and music on Sunday nights.  The place was packed (Mothers like beer and music too), and I sat back and enjoyed a Beowulf Dragon Smoke Stout.  A beautiful beer, and a great way to close out the day.  It was time to get some sleep. – 6000/12063

Ere’s to English women an’ a quart of English beer.” – Rudyard Kipling

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